Whole Hog & Nothing but the Hog

When a beast is slaughtered, its hind legs are knotted together and its body swings downward while the hooves are tightened to some out-of-the-way level. A main artery is cut, the animal’s blood drains out and the being simply dies.

This is not exactly a thought I have every day, and certainly it was the last thing on my mind being led up the stairs last Thursday to take part in Oliveto’s “Whole Hog” dinner. The journey from field to butcher block is one I’m pleased to know little about—my unfamiliarity with the careful separation of body parts and immediate chilling even more of a thrill for me.

Nevertheless, I found myself sitting at a table set for nine, delightedly reviewing the most focal menu I’ve ever been presented. All around me friends were ordering fried trotters, pickled ears, blood pudding and kidney with peppercress. Over a shared platter of Paul Bertolli’s well-known salumi, I finally settled on the Warm Pork Tongue, Artichokes and Herbs antipasto followed by Braised Pork Belly Stuffed with Fennel and Green Olives.

Criss-crossing our plates from one end of the table to the other, we each sacrificed bites to garner tastes of every dish--until, from ear to entrail, we had partook of the whole hog.

(Happy 26th, Scotty & farewell, Rachael—what a memorable evening to commemorate.)

www.oliveto.com/wholehogdinner06.html